Friday, July 5, 2013

Repas CG: The Aftermath... June 21

  We weren't sure what to expect from the first evening repas, but as we all tramped out to the yard, cognacs and coffees in hand to toast a "super moon" and the Summer Solstice, the answer was clear. Evening meals we've done, yet this was the first departure from what have become our regular Sunday afternoon gatherings. Except for the change in time and light, though, little else differed.
 Oh, the hour did allow Katie to go a bit deeper with flavors. The warm day had cooled just enough to welcome her choice to start, a soup of slow roasted heirloom tomatoes, topped with basil oil, and crème fraîche. Summer in a bowl. Chose a Mâcon-Charnay(100% Chardonnay) for this, which would be the sole white served. Normally even handed between whites and reds, this meal would lean more towards the latter. So it was that next poured was a Château Peyros from the Madiran of the southwest, a meeting of Cabernet and Tannat, an intense, hearty varietal. Roasted bone marrow was plated along with toasts, and caper-parsley salad. Variations of this dish have crossed my path a lot recently, from here to Paris and back. Not sure who's following who, but gratitude is in play at each serving. Moans and sighs carried the conversation for the next while, broken only by clinking of spoon to bone or plate.
 As Katie seared off thick cuts of tri-tip, the wine slid over to Bordeaux(Château Beaulieu). Paraphrasing advice once given about the region, "Find 'em young, or let 'em sit." With only a few years in the bottle, this Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc offered the fruit wanted for the ragoût of sweet peppers and the baked fromage frais that Katie had made that morning, while still holding soft tannins to match up with the beef; served thinly sliced and very, very pink. An initial thought of going with a deep Rhône was easily forgotten. In fact, stayed in the southwest for all three reds, dropping back down to Cahors for an eclectic blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Gamay, and, of course, Malbec, for the cheese and salad. While the cows milk offering was firm and subtle, found my palate drawn to the Petit Gris goat from the Lorraine. Sharp and dense, it lingered, waiting for the wine.
 Although a gratin is normally thought of as a savory dish, Kate's raspberry version hit home. The fruit was blanketed by vanilla custard, then dusted in sugar, and set under the broiler for a light charring. Fresh, rich, and gorgeous. No sooner had coffee and cognac been served, when we were drawn outside by the moon. With the focus and aide of friend Righter, our digital telescope was put into play. Candles in large bell jars sat lit about the garden, although the moon needed no help. Glasses were topped off, turns taken viewing. It wasn't until the last guest left not long before midnight that the reality hit of a too early flight south to family and Newport Beach. So be it! The first night was a good night, one to be repeated.

Recipes and Wine Notes available on request.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com


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