Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Spring Rain... France (Spring Sessions 2012)

We returned to France on the heels of several weeks of wet weather which left the rolling terrain beyond our train window understandably green, a color heightened by the electric yellow of rape seed fields. While farmers are struggling Stateside with the early heat and dry conditions it brings, our French farming neighbors in the Charente spoke of the want for sun. No strangers to re-entry, we pride ourselves on being able to pop shutters, lift linens, and have a fire going in short order. No need. Thoughtful friends had been airing the house for a few days, then filled our fridge with staples (cheese, milk, butter, ham, etc.) to ease the arrival. Humbling is such generosity.
 That evening we were treated to dinner, as well, so as not to have to struggle with the fatigue of travel. Alice and Aleric, two friends who go out of their way to make sure we are always well received, insisted we take dinner with them. The afternoon had warmed a bit, but I got a fire going anyway, the better to lift any residual damp from stone walls. Alice, seemingly taking a cue from the show of sunshine, treated us to a taste of North Africa with a chicken braise and couscous meal that was perfect and light considering we'd be hitting the sheets promptly. A shredded zucchini salad and small balls of bufala mozzarella had gotten us started, Aleric opening some of local vintner Roland Villneau's rosé. Just right. Some young goat cheese... a few small strawberries... some crème brûlée... a short coffee. (I'm weird that way. Able to hit a coffee, then sleep directly afterward.)
 And sleep we did. Rain returning as we settled in for the night made me glad to have added a log to the fire;  the better  to "open" the house up a bit more. Then sleep, that wonderful, thoughtless sleep after having traveled long distance.

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Sunday, May 6, 2012

Repas CG: The Aftermath... April 29

A very welcome gift.
With the sound of the jet engines warming to take us back to France, a few quick words of sunshine, Spring, and lamb. As the cassoulet repas of March fell amid a series of late season storms, and the less than ideal cooking conditions they instilled, Katie asked that I toss her a "softball" for our next location. No more comfortable and welcome embrace than our beloved Dopo over in Oakland. A space so well known to us, it's as if cooking at home. And so it was that we set to open the doors to a warm, sun washed day, the breeze full of budding flower and cut grass.
 A friend, and very talented young East Bay sous chef, recently remarked, "It's a great time of year to be a cook." With the markets awakening, becoming more plentiful each week, his words rang true when we were making our way through the early morning quiet of Allemany Market ("The People's Market."). From full baskets, Katie began with a soup of young asparagus, a mound of baby artichoke hearts in the center that had been tossed chervil, olive oil, and lemon. For this we began with a Petite Courbu from the Madiran. Referred to as the "Viogner of the Southwest" for it's weight and rich, silky texture, there also is the added benefit of a nice natural acidity. She followed this with her lamb sausage, broken into little mounds that were sautéed with fava beans, Spring garlic, radish greens, and lemon zest, served over a round of toasted baguette. A Minervois from the 4th generation Andrieu family was seleted, the peppery Syrah well able to stay with the lamb, and the full berry of the Mourvedre softening the Calabrians (some of the last of our hanging Winter bunches) Katie tucked in before plating.
 Then it was time to unveil the Spring lamb, boned and tied, studded in herbs and sea salt. Pink and lovely, she sliced it thin, and served it with the potatoes Dauphinoise; sliced paper thin, crispy brown on top, cream and butter oozing from within. The dish called for a Burgundy, and Les Dames Huguettes 2009 from Mongeard-Mugneret (Hautes Côtes de Nuits) slid into glass, mouth, and belly very nicely; well balanced, soft cherry, and a minerality that added to the finish. With a pungent and gooey Pont Levesque chosen to accompany the wild arugula, it was back to where we started (the southwest) for a Malbec from the Cohors (Georges Vigouroux).  The Gouleyant (Loose translation: Gulp-able!) had the cocao and licorice you might expect, but also a fresh, bright berry to ease the intense elements of the cheese. Lastly: Gateau Fraise with Crème Citron! Ahhh... Stacked little vanilla cakes, layered with a lemon laced butter cream, the first small strawberries spilling about. Not wanting to bury the freshness, went with a slightly more light cognac (Pierre Ferrand, 1er Cru, Ambre), subtle in it's apricot, rose, and pear.
 As the afternoon stretched into early evening, and guests slowly trickled off, the jazz turned to R&B, another splash of cognac tossed into the glass. Familiar faces from Piedmont Avenue appeared in passing, pulling us happily from our chairs to visit, catch up. Sunday's... Good meals, longs talks, and friends.

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