When you're used to a market each morning, Monday's without any to visit can leave you a bit empty. Rather than lament "what's a girl to do", this one made cheese! In the nearby village of Juillé resides the generous and welcoming Madame Flaud along with her some 200 fluffy white goats. Introduced by our dear friend/neighbor Alice (
Ah-leese), who had told of my fledgling cheese making with cow's milk, the response was simple and matter of fact: I would need to come early the next day to experience her goats!
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| One of my friends. |
The milking is done at day break on a farm so unassuming it would be easy to pass right by if not for the tiny little wooden sign tucked on the side proclaiming farm fresh cheese for sale. When the air is cool the goats will venture to adjoining fields for a nibble of grass, but the present dry conditions in the Charente had them that morning under cover. The barn housing the flock is quite large and made of wood, surprising for a region dominated by stone structures. Anyone who has stated, "It's a dog's life.", has clearly not met a goat. Eating and milking are wedged between a steady flow of naps, lounging, and the occasional licking of one's coat. Only the most curious stir when a visitor arrives, but even they are eventually drawn back to the straw bed. After a good deep scratch behind the ears, that is. The air was rich in hay and animal, but absent of the dank musk expected.
Common to most farm cheese production, the "raw" milk is not warmed (pasteurized), but instead taken directly into the "lab". There it is transfered to freshly scrubbed vats, a
présure (rennet) is added to coagulate, a bit of a wait and stir, and then a whole lot of delicate scooping goes on by way of a very large ladle; the separation of curd and whey. Many small straining baskets are set upon an expanse of stainless, a slight angle feeding the excess liquid into a drain set in the tables center. Consistent with the beautiful notion that nothing be wasted, even the drained liquid is the used to make another grade of cheese.
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| Get me some tartine! Quick! |
The result is a
fromage frais, similar to a lightly shaped ricotta, eaten young, creamy, and spreadable. Delicious! There are also two more aged versions: One being given a couple of weeks to develop a thin rind allowing for a bit more of the goat to come through on the palate, the oldest of a month or more has a further thick and firm rind that will insure it to last a good long while; deep barnyard in the aftertaste. This latter one, which will hold up quite well to grating over fresh pasta, thinly sliced roasted pork loin, or the occasional tuna melt craving, is also perfect for travel, should a round "accidently" end up in a bag slated to return Stateside.
(
http://www.chez-gautier.com)
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