More Cherries... France (Spring Sessions... 2011)

 Cherries, cherries, cherries!  As Graham spoke of in the last post, when it's cherry time, it's cherry time, and I happily complied, eating my body weight in the red beauties. My attention soon turned, however, on how to save some of those juicy suckers well into the year. After thinking long and hard, and having a few chats with the ladies about Charmé, I decided to brandy them. Although coming across a couple of liters of eau de vie in our wine cave made by our dear Henri Jarjeval (now since passed nearly 6 years), signaled a slight change in plan. A remnant from making vin de noix from our walnuts, I would marry up the perfectly ripe fruit (stems on preferably) with the eau de vie, sugar, and water. I was off and running.

 First, it must be confirmed though that this was in fact eau de vie, as it was stored in old Coke bottles. (Everything is utilized in the countryside!) With the strong fumes, there was an outside chance it might have been lamp fuel or some such thing. So off I went across the way to Suzanne's, who upon being presented a bottle promptly uncorked, buried a finger, and sucked. Wiping away the tears, the fire running down her throat, she nodded conformation. Yes, eau de vie it was! Settling back in our kitchen, I went to work: mixed up the "liqueur" (sugar, water, etc.), sterilized lids and jars, placed in the cherries, and finally covered them with liquid.  Once done, it was into the cave for all, it being essential to keep the drunken lovelies out of direct sunlight for a good three weeks if not more.

 With very few ingredients, we were set for cherries long after those still on the branch would be memories. The Bing cherries could be used for both sweet (over vanilla ice cream or warm, freshly baked short bread) as well as savory (with seared off foie gras, some toasted brioche, and a pile of fluer de sel). Perhaps my favorite is with magret de canard. Score the breasts, sear skin side down, finish in the oven while warming the fruit and some of the liquid with butter. Slice them thin, napped in the sauce, a few of the cherries about the plate... Ah, just perfect! (Recipes on request.)

(http://www.chez-gautier.com)