Repas CG: The Aftermath... November 10

 With the approach of last week's annual homage to "little birds", I had had one of my favorite butchers from the Charente in mind. He and his wife have been fixtures at the Saturday market in nearby Ruffec, arriving with their shop on wheels. When presenting that day's birds be they quail, pheasant, or pigeon, he tends to lean over the glass case with a smile, and a proud "Trois jours." or "Une semaine.", refering to the time spent aging, the better to lift moisture, increase flavor. The word "fresh" can be a relative thing, differing from interpretations back here in the States. So it was that I began my prep work earlier than normal in the week. Quail was secured, lightly salted, and set in the "frigo". There was also duck sausage to make, done with the whole bird, dried blueberries, fresh herbs, and garlic. In the latter I benefited greatly with the help of a generous and talented friend, she of the Michelin Star won at only 26, back-in-the-day. Beautiful smells would follow each time I opened the door, the strung meats hanging from fridge shelves.

 Come Sunday guests arrived to find me stuffing the last of the now boned out featured birds, fingers covered in bread crumbs, crispy lardon, orange zest, and thyme. Embraces came regardless. With Charmé in mind from recent calls with friends, just had to offer "short" glasses of pineau blanc. Toasted some almonds with a bit of the flaky fleur de sel I brought back from my last stay to balance out the richness of the port-like aperitif. Eventually, we began with a mushroom soup, toasted rounds of baguette slathered with a chicken liver pâté done with tarragon and cognac set in the center. Doing all reds for this one, a lighter Grenache was poured. The duck sausage came next, the lengths swelling when paired with the hot skillets, then placed on sliced apple and shaved red cabbage that I'd finished in butter and cognac. (Yes, cognac would play a significant role in this meal, but I've promised armagnac equal time in the near future.) Opened a Faugères for this, the blend of "usual suspects" from the Languedoc gave the fruit needed to hold up to the fat of the sausage without being too heavy for the quail to come.

 Speaking of quail... After a sear for color, and some oven time to finish, the honored guests arrived on a warm bed of lentilles du Puy and wilted red dandelion greens, lightly tossed in a citrus vinaigrette. Did a Burgundy with this, the vilelles vignes offering a depth in flavor, but there was also a silky thing going on which didn't overwhelm the delicate birds. Changed from the intended arugula to mixed greens having just had the dandelion greens, and matched them up with an earthy goat (chabichou du Poitou) and a sheep, goat, and cow venture whose creaminess was just... crazy good.

 With the persimmon tree in the garden going off in oranges, reds, and yellows, the pôt de crème was an easy call. Although the fruit came courtesy of Monterey Market, needing several of the water ballon-like hachiya, they came perfect for my needs. A change in time brought the expected early dusk, and thus candles were lit for cognac... coffee... remaining words.

Recipes and Wine Notes available on request.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://chez-gautier.com