As we're committed to focusing the next
repas around the remarkable wood fired oven in the backyard of friends, we slid one more meal into the cottage. A chance to enjoy the flowers and foliage before autumn, at least what we in northern California refer to as autumn, sets in. More than a little surprised that the heat of our "indian summer" has yet to arrive, the high clouds and hazy light had me prep logs in case a fire might be needed later in the afternoon. Mocking my preparation, the sun blinked out to stay as I made my way back from clipping young fennel fronds from a nearby park for some color on the table.
Guests trickled in, each dealing graciously with the focused attention of Honey, who approached them like they were rock stars. Such indulgence probably should not be encouraged, but the wagging tale, soft pats of tiny paws, and shaking rumba-booty swayed most to give a caress or three. New faces and old introduced themselves, invariably gravitating to the kitchen to give Katie some love. With the smell of butter and pastry filling the room seats were taken. On an airy base of
mille feuille, Katie set varied slices of Heirloom tomatoes in red, gold, purple, and green.
Fromage fraise, France's answer to ricotta cheese which Katie had made earlier in the morning, was then added along with fresh herb. On the day after Summer, the light and fresh tart bore the essence of the season just past. A search for fruit to balance the acidity of the tomatoes, yet a brightness for the butter and cheese, led me down Bordeaux way to a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend. The Romage family can rest easy as the they have passed operations to the able hands of daughter Estelle. (Chateau Lestille, Entre-Deux-Mer, 2011)
Butter in the air gave way to roasting fish. In preparation, Katie had slow roasted halved Early Girls, pulling some of the moister but intensifying the earth and sweetness. She did the same for small whole shallot, caramelizing and softening the flavor. Just before setting filets of halibut atop these for the oven she did what I've come to love: She changed her mind. So beautiful was the fish, she used only the tomatoes and a bit of salt, adding a fresh sprig of thyme and drizzle of olive oil once plated. The result was hard to argue. To keep it clean and simple, a white burgundy was chosen from Côte Châlonnaise (Montagny). (Buissonnair, Les Vignerons de Buxy, 2010)
Cooked herbs spoke of the pork. Katie'd chosen her roasts small, then tied them up before rubbing on chopped parley, marjoram, chive, mint, lemon zest, garlic, and chili. About half way through the process she added whole garlic cloves and small purple Italian plums, both finishing tender but keeping their shape. It was here that she chose to include the shallots, tucking them in with the others beside the thinly sliced meat, along with a mound of dressed arugula. A dark and earthy Gamay from the foot of Mt. Brouilly got the call, the granite soil pleasingly apparent. (Domaine de Vissoux, Brouilly, Pierre-Marie Chermette, "Pierreux", 2009) Missing "home" Katie found a
chabichou de Poitou, a goat cheese from our region of France that was aged to a firm texture, a deep flavor. She added to it something she made the mistake of tasting, rendering her
unable to pass even though it was from Holland! The pumpkin orange gouda was also firm, yet tender due to the cows milk. Wanting spice and fruit, I poured a Syrah and Mourvèdre blend which offered many layers in the glass. On top of that, how can you not love a wine made by an old rugby player?! (Gérard Bertrand, Saint Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, 2009)
Dessert came as a result of a craving that resulted in
fleur de sel caramels and
pain d'amande, the wafer thin crisp of almond cookie. Mission figs joined them on the plate as coffee and some Remi Landier cognac were passed around. Butter, sugar, and salt are a tough combo to pass up, so it was no wonder that hands found their way into the large glass cookie jar Katie presented when guests departed. Just in case...
For some strange reason, she and I looped back to savory. The idea of a let's-postpone-the-dishes glass, turned into cold pork and tomatoes, washed down by icy Stella's. We let the failing tea-lights tell us when to move, which they did thankfully quite a long while later.
Chez Gautier Cooking School:
http://www.chez-gautier.com
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