Repas CG: The Aftermath... July 22

With a change of address from the City to North Berkeley, we chose to celebrate last Sunday's repas by having it at "the cottage". Still in the throws of moving clutter, we prepped, pushed, hid, and stashed all that had yet to be orderly disposed, in the process answering the question, "Where do you 'hide' 27 boxes of books?" The promised heat arrived with our guests, any fog being long gone. Greetings were passed about, and in some cases old friends rediscovered, as all assembled about the lavender, tomatoes, and other assorted things recently put in the pots or ground of the courtyard.

 The heat remained at the door as we settled table-side, cool air reigning, a benefit of the high ceiling. Katie took her cue from the change, opting to serve the roasted corn soup warm instead of cold, the sharp chill and acid by way of her pickled courgette offsetting the sweetness. The corn, sunny day, and just a hint of smoke had me thinking "pink sparkler", and the fruit, yeast, and earth of the crement de Bourgogne (Louis Bouillot, Brut), mostly Pinot Noir with a hint of Gamay Noir, held up very well. (Kept in bottle for 24 months, as opposed the usual 9, made for a nice finesse in the glass.) With dueling grills going outside, a topped off glass was needed as sardines were put to flame. Stuffed with thyme, cervil, sweet onion, and lemon, tied off to maintain shape, they were met on the plate by a drizzle of aioli along with some tossed arugula. Maybe it was grill smoke or perhaps the herbs, but chose a white from just outside of Aix-en-Provence (Chateau de Beaupré), whose blend dominant in Rolle (Vermintino...?) with help from Sauvignon, Bourbelanc, and Grenache Blanc offered enough fruit for the grilling and a crisp acidity and citrus to ease the aioli.

 The replenished wood softening to white, the meat hit the fire next, but only for a short stay. Once rested, a strip of the relish (olive oil, parsley, chili, garlic, and lemon) was added, as were little roquefort soufflés and swiss chard tossed in garlic. Stayed down south for this one, with a Grenache (Carignane and Syrah added for depth) from Chateau Etang des Colombes; sound fruit, good earth, tannins present, but soft. For cheeses to go with the mixed greens, Katie chose a firm, wash rind cows milk from the Rhône (Secret de Couvert) and a creamy, pungent Pont-l'Évêque. Stay in the same neighborhood for this, the rich and round fruit of the (Domaine de la Damase) Grenache seemed familiar with the former cheese, bold and young enough for latter.
 Gallette was served, the bright flavor of apricots balanced against the musky blueberries, a bit of crème fraîche as well. Coffee and cognac followed, the  smooth and balanced Remi Landier from Cors just outside of Foussignac, representing well it's 5 generations. We lingered again in the courtyard, this time for goodbyes. At least, for now. A good spot, this new place. Have a feeling there may be a meal or two more to come here.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com