Repas CG: The Aftermath... July 22

With a change of address from the City to North Berkeley, we chose to celebrate last Sunday's repas by having it at "the cottage". Still in the throws of moving clutter, we prepped, pushed, hid, and stashed all that had yet to be orderly disposed, in the process answering the question, "Where do you 'hide' 27 boxes of books?" The promised heat arrived with our guests, any fog being long gone. Greetings were passed about, and in some cases old friends rediscovered, as all assembled about the lavender, tomatoes, and other assorted things recently put in the pots or ground of the courtyard.

 The heat remained at the door as we settled table-side, cool air reigning, a benefit of the high ceiling. Katie took her cue from the change, opting to serve the roasted corn soup warm instead of cold, the sharp chill and acid by way of her pickled courgette offsetting the sweetness. The corn, sunny day, and just a hint of smoke had me thinking "pink sparkler", and the fruit, yeast, and earth of the crement de Bourgogne (Louis Bouillot, Brut), mostly Pinot Noir with a hint of Gamay Noir, held up very well. (Kept in bottle for 24 months, as opposed the usual 9, made for a nice finesse in the glass.) With dueling grills going outside, a topped off glass was needed as sardines were put to flame. Stuffed with thyme, cervil, sweet onion, and lemon, tied off to maintain shape, they were met on the plate by a drizzle of aioli along with some tossed arugula. Maybe it was grill smoke or perhaps the herbs, but chose a white from just outside of Aix-en-Provence (Chateau de Beaupré), whose blend dominant in Rolle (Vermintino...?) with help from Sauvignon, Bourbelanc, and Grenache Blanc offered enough fruit for the grilling and a crisp acidity and citrus to ease the aioli.

 The replenished wood softening to white, the meat hit the fire next, but only for a short stay. Once rested, a strip of the relish (olive oil, parsley, chili, garlic, and lemon) was added, as were little roquefort soufflés and swiss chard tossed in garlic. Stayed down south for this one, with a Grenache (Carignane and Syrah added for depth) from Chateau Etang des Colombes; sound fruit, good earth, tannins present, but soft. For cheeses to go with the mixed greens, Katie chose a firm, wash rind cows milk from the Rhône (Secret de Couvert) and a creamy, pungent Pont-l'Évêque. Stay in the same neighborhood for this, the rich and round fruit of the (Domaine de la Damase) Grenache seemed familiar with the former cheese, bold and young enough for latter.
 Gallette was served, the bright flavor of apricots balanced against the musky blueberries, a bit of crème fraîche as well. Coffee and cognac followed, the  smooth and balanced Remi Landier from Cors just outside of Foussignac, representing well it's 5 generations. We lingered again in the courtyard, this time for goodbyes. At least, for now. A good spot, this new place. Have a feeling there may be a meal or two more to come here.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com

La Liberté... France (Spring Sessions... 2012)

A last thought of Spring...
 Not long after our recent return to France, Katie and I set out early one morning (Comme d'habitude) to a local open air market, only to find it closed. Subsequently it was revealed to us that nearly all was closed (markets, banks, the post office, etc.) as it was May 8, the day marking the end of WWII. Red faced by lack of awareness, along with a poor marking of history, our presence was soon requested by neighbors for a commemorative lunch. As Charmé was part of the region of "occupied" France during the war, the appreciation and relief of liberation are still present.

Katie's Spring favorite: Lilies of the Valley
in the garden's corner.

 Again it was Alice and Aleric, forever thoughtful, who were our hosts, along with dear Laurence (the aunt of Aleric). Much like Sunday's, holiday's in France bring all pleasantly to a halt, adding to the still of the tranquil countryside. We began with Alice's gallette of lardon, mushrooms, and a bechamel, rich and savory, the crust delicate and light. Some of the local rosé fit in very well here. Grateful of a sun too recently rare, they took advantage of the opportunity to grill sausages (a pork and herb, as well as a Merguez, of course). With these, Alice included pomme purée. Butter, cream , and potatoes. Yes! A bottle of Roland's Merlot, smooth with a good weight, was opened. Cheese and greens... Coffee and éclairs chocolat from the patisserie in Aigre (Which Aleric thankfully found opened half-day due to the holiday.)... A pass on the cognac, but an absolute giving in to the sieste.

 The sun was hanging low in the sky when we made our way out for a late afternoon wander. Looping up past Antoine's rows of vines, and on towards the tiny hamlet of Moussac, we ducked down into the Marais; a pocket of fields split by a mill stream, where those in the village with an interest are able to lay out more expansive gardens in the dark, nearly black soil than those at their homes. Perhaps because of the recent extended rain, they were slow in growth for this time of year, but the pride and care were on full display: immaculate rows of strawberries, lettuce, and radish; stakes and string already in place to enhance the tomatoes and beans to come; white asparagus, hearty and determined, pushing up through the mounded soil, asking for the table.
 The paths of narrow packed earth, just large enough to allow for a small tractor, provided a good test of the progress in letting our new pup "off leash". Despite setting out sniffing and exploring, she would only allow for a few paces before checking in by way of "come on guy's" turn of the head, before continuing. It was not long until she kicked up a couple of chevreaux (small dear), previously hidden while napping in a patch of young wheat, sending them loping effortlessly away over the green waist high buds. A male pheasant, brilliantly dressed in claret and gold, was soon flushed from a parcel of sprouting corn. It was a handful of Didier's cows, trotting over through their meadow of tender grass that stopped Honey dead still, nothing like this having ever been seen on the mean streets of Hayward (where she had been picked up by animal control a few months previous). Unsure what beasts be these, she froze beside the fence shaking, a ferocious bark no doubt hidden somewhere deep inside her 7 lbs. frame, not able to surface. Unconvinced by my lifting her to be licked, we continued on home, just making it as the sun dipped behind the low hillside, and the small road that snakes its way up to Bessé.


Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com

Honey Does Paris... Spring Sessions (France 2012)

 For anyone who's ever been to Paris it will come as no surprise that it's very dog friendly. Assumption can be an anchor when traveling, however. Thus prior to our customary wander of the city, done each time when returning from the countryside, there were conversations to be had with the proprietors of both the small family run hotel we preferred and the restaurant of choice for dinner that night. Although each was touched by the courtesy, neither was the least bit concerned. The Madame of the hotel even going so far as to break into english (a first in our dealings) to echo my description of our petite chien nouvelle, qui est très mignon ("Wee luuv, uhm, cuute leeetle dugs."). The owner of Le Severo in the 14th, that tiny gem home to perhaps the best steak frîtes in the city, merely responded with an un-bothered "Oui...?". (Easy to imagine over the phone the accompanying shrug of shoulders.)
 So northward we trained, the latest installment of our fêtes de voisins from the day before still fresh in memories: foie gras made from the geese of Suzanne's daughter, Katherine, served with Alice's confiture d'oignon; Katie did a course of grilled mackerel, stuffed in thyme and lemon, and served with white asparagus; Suzanne roasted one of those beautiful chickens from the farm in Juillé with young potatoes. The countryside sped by under a sky with few clouds, as we got into a "fridge emptier" picnic of bread, saucisson, a few cheeses, and Kronnenbourgs wrapped in foil. Dinner would not come until later that evening, and a few hours of exploring would need to be done before then.

 Bags were dropped, but not before most everyone working at the hotel emerged from the back for kind words and a caress of the pup, leaving us relegated to bystanders. (W.C. Fields had it right about being rendered useless in the presence of kids and animals.) Through the nearby Jardins de Luxembourg, stopping for some sun by the large fountain, we strolled long enough to make the cold pressions at Au Petit Suisse seem earned. Spoke at length with a very cool art dealer in the process of setting up an interactive on-line form of gallery comprised of Europe-wide artists, so much so that we cheated ourselves of the long walk down to the lower 14th. A cab was hailed.
 Greeted warmly in the very small (29 seats?) restaurant, Honey was easily deposited at our feet. Meat is prominent at Le Severo, with only one of the... 8 starters (white asparagus) and one of the 8 or so "mains" (sole meunière) being the exceptions. Ordering too much food and being un-bugged by it, we started with poached pig trotters shaped into little "cakes", seared in a hot skillet to give a nice crust, a mound of water cress to cut the fat a bit; steak tartare, so fresh, and ground to order; a terrine of head cheese, rich in warm spice. Then it was on to the steaks, Katie opting for a fist sized rumstek ("rump" steak) and I for the entrecôte ("rib eye"), served perfectly saignant. (Should you be one normally tempted to go further with your temp, the "Saignant!" written in the center of the chalk board wall mapping the available wines should discourage. You won't be sorry.) Pink, rested, damn good. With them came crispy golden frîtes done in duck fat, and (to assuage any guilt) an order of the white asparagus, tossed in a whole grain mustard vinaigrette was included.

 Rather than further test what had been commendable patience for a young dog, we jumped ahead to espresso; the better to get out and walk off some of what we consumed. The cool night air was welcome, a faint remnant of twilight lingering as we slid up the tree lined Rue Emile Richard that cuts through the Cimetière de Montparnasse. It was only when passing a gelato shop an hour or so later that our resolve weekend, leaving us sitting on a stoop just down from the hotel sharing small plastic spoons of chocolate-hazelnut, stracciatella, and dolce de lece. We would be off early in what was already the next day, separated by only few hours of sleep, warm croissants, and a café crème.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com

Family Reunion... Midwestern Style

Road trippin'!

What do you do when a "family reunion" is called for, but the family in question is spread all over? Meet 'em in the middle! The middle of the country that is. Such was the case this past July 4th week when Gathrights from East and West converged on The Cottonwood Ranch in (round about) central Nebraska. Set on a couple thousand acres, a ribbon of the Platte River sliding through, the property is a legacy of Katie's Dad's family (The Petersons) who homesteaded back in the late 1870's. A carefully protected balance has been created between the farmers who work the land (corn, wheat, soy bean, etc.), the various family members who visit each year, and the abundant wildlife that flourishes about the woods and riverbank.

 For the gaggle that comprise my family, most all of whom hail from the Bay Area, it was an opportunity to eat big steaks, drink many a cold beer, roam freely with thoughts, and lounge gratefully in beach chairs set in the flow of the Platte. The consistently 100+ degree heat made the latter a necessity. When even the river wouldn't do, we'd immerse in a large, round metal "horse tank", fed icy well water pumped by the rooster-tale windmill pictured. Just push aside the numerous beers and odd watermelon or two, and soak as long as your heart (among other things) could take it. Ahhhhh!

Buttermilk soaked then fried chicken.

 An added benefit was the inclusion of members of Katie's Mom's family(The Belschners), who settled in the area not long after her Dad's. They joined us to celebrate the 4th, freshly ground burgers and a selection of house-made sausages in tow. Originally opened in 1892 as a classic "general store", Belschner Custom Meats is overseen by 85 year old patriarch Uncle Jim, and the steady hand, and strong back of his grandson Casey. They graciously and patiently welcomed, toured, and endured a parade of Gathrights eager to wonder about the "store". Then, we all got together to celebrate our Independence with b-b-q, cold beverages, remarkable baked goods (Cousin Shawn's rhubarb pie!!!), and some serious river sittin'. A lazy and perfect way to spend an afternoon, plopped in a beach chair set in the river flow, only stirring to refill the glass or see if maybe one more piece of something yummy could squeeze into an already protesting belly.

The principal suspects + Marilyn

 As most of our family are city dwellers, the raw beauty of the the ranch seemed to captivate. Shimmering cotton woods, sweeping river grasses, along with the Platte herself serve as home to deer, rabbits, coyotes, bald eagles, hawks, quail, pheasant, wild turkeys, and (in season) ducks and Sand Hill cranes. One night at dinner we watched a massive "Tom" turkey zigzag his way along the opposite bank only to be followed 15 minutes or so later by a deep red and brown coyote, making the same exact twists and turns. The following sunrise a female coyote made her way through the shallows and a  string of sandbars, pups tagging closely behind. Each evening we'd head out to walk off dinner, the ritual closing of the main gate augmented by the swelling moon. For those a bit reluctant, the small John Deere was employed, outfitted with trailer bearing two long reclaimed "bench seats", giving better vantage of the sea of fire flies (lightening bugs) swimming over the darkened alfalfa fields.

Enough bacon on that "baker"?!

 Picnics were packed for hikes down river to "deep water", not so deep in this dry year, but satisfying none the less. Cool water and colder beers (You see the pattern developing here?!) kept pace with whatever leftovers we put together. Our shaggy little pup, bravely venturing in the water for the first time, learned to swim... ehr survive! No doubt emboldened from trips along a trickle of stream (all of 3 inches deep) near our new North Berkeley cottage, she'd launch herself in whatever water she could. When her trotting led to high-stepping, then to being swept away by deeper flow (much to the concern of my wife), Honey didn't disappoint. Although exposed when wet for the little skinny that she is, her spirit seemed lifted by the accomplishment which was repeated many times in the day's that followed. After several hours, the heat and sun would encourage us homeward, not before combing a finger or two of slow moving river for agates, the prizes washed down by water and time.

 Naps would replenish, and then it was time to cook: steaks of various types (of course), roasted pork loin and whole garlic, fried chicken, roasted chicken, chicken tacos, and even pizzas. There was corn on the cob, found easily from local farmers, along with creative interpretations of the classics: cole slaw, baked potatoes, three bean and potato salads. Wine that had lined nearly all our suitcases flowed, family stories soon followed, and glasses were raised to our folks now both passed. In the last of the golden light, the Platte set in orange and gold, we'd summon the courage to ease some icy water melon into full middles. Even better were the s'mores fests, done around drift wood fires, where adults were hard to tell from the kids; laughing, mouths full and smeared in chocolate, licking sooted marshmallow from fingers.
 Families are never perfect, but we somehow managed to strike the delicate balance between fine meals, a stunning location, and small doses of family drama. No, not all the fireworks were reserved for the 4th, and I wouldn't have had it any other way. You love 'em, wrestle with 'em, then love 'em some more.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com