Repas CG: The Aftermath... February 19

 Despite the long holiday weekend, and the Bay Bridge closed for construction, we settled into a meal featuring some tried and true French "classics" last Sunday. Big doses of thanks to all who joined in, especially those that trekked over from the City on BART; the bridge be damned! Café 817 proved home for the day, the charming spot in Old Oakland owned by the talented duo of Scott and Emily Goldenberg; until recently fixtures at the Zuni Café. Once the storage room for Ratto's Market (Est. 1897) next door, 817 has maintained the old (chipped subway tiles, wood molding, and ample ceiling) without sacrificing the new (iron support beams, cast cement bar, and blown glass pendants).

Stealing a stove side bight.

 A warm sun and nearly empty streets allowed for the doors to be open for a pleasant breeze to flow. Katie wasted little time in plating the onion soup, gruyère bubbling at the bowl mouth. With the beef broth rich and onions sweet, a hint of cognac drizzled just before crouton and cheese hit the broiler, a Vatan Sancerre was poured; walking the line between clean acidity and distinct minerality, just a hint of flint. For the goat cheese soufflé that followed, a mound of roasted golden beets tossed in champagne vinaigrette included to tease the mouth, a Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc was needed. Known as the "lip stinger" for it's bright acidity, it rounded out nicely,  the citrus finish seemingly softened by the Mediterranean air. From this light perch, it was then time for the deep, dark flavors of the boeuf bourguignon, braised with pearl onions, wild mushrooms, and carrots, served over  pommes purée; cream and butter present, to be sure. Tempted by a few options from Burgundy, it was a Mourchon Grand Resérve from Séguret (southern Rhône Valley) that proved true. Fat and full of dark fruit, tannins subtly present, it was Grenache driven with enough Syrah to keep it interesting. With Kate's choice of an intense Reblochon to accompany the tossed arugula, a Morgan by Laurent Guillet was opened, the cooked cherry and brighter acidity offered ample balance to the cheese.
 In the failing light, with the strings of white holiday lights that wrap the trees of Washington Street having come into focus, the smell of sugar and butter announced the tarte tatins coming from the oven; a bit of whipped cream soon added. As coffee and cognac followed, a calm took easy hold of the room. Content to let the herb and apricot of the medium weight Park Borderies (Single Vineyard) play about my mouth, acting as if the room would clean itself (It never does!), we spoke of it's origins, the smallest of cognacs six growing segments. Ben Webster was blowing a soft sax accompanied by strings, when we reluctantly began our goodbyes.


http://www.chez-gautier.com