To distract from the turkey hangover many are suffering, I'll offer a tale of three rabbits. (Or, at least, rabbit served three ways.) For the last
repas before the New Year, on a day of soft and steady rain, we turned to an old friend for a warm, dry space. Dopo, home to artisanal Italian magic, opened their "home" to us and our merry band of rabbit eaters. The wet weather actually enhanced the intimacy, the way it can when the weather is cold and damp and you've escaped to a room with candles lit, the table full, and aromas pouring from the kitchen.
Eggs en coucotte, done with chantrelles, rabbit livers, cognac, and tarragon, was paired with a Rhône blend of Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, and Bourboulenc. The wine proved bright and clean to handle the egg, but with fruit round enough to keep up with the livers and mushrooms. For Katie's rabbit rillette, salad of Bosc pear and radicchio, and walnut tartine, it was a Chinon (Cabernet Franc); a wine bearing depth to match the richness of the shredded meat without a lingering fruit to overwhelm the pear. Turned to Sebastian Gay's Chorey-Les-Beaune for the rabbit braised in mustard, sweet onions, and prunes; a true pleasure with it's initial bright fruit and subsequent clean finish. Lastly, for dressed arugula as well as a runny Camembert and bold Blue, went with a luscious Côtes De Nuits-Village from another very talented young wine maker, Veronique Drouhin. As the walnut cake with persimmon crême anglais settled, and the press pots were readied of our neighborhood roaster's coffee, the cognac arrived: a light and floral Maison Park, the fine marriage of the Tessendier family's old vine
eau-de-vie and Dominic Park's contemporary approach (organic, no caramelized additives, etc.).
Time now to settle in to what we hope for all will be a satisfying Holiday season. May you be safe and contented. We'll resurface in January focused on duck to begin the New Year. Until then...
http://www.chez-gautier.com
No comments:
Post a Comment