Markets Of Six Items...

Spring garlic from our garden.

 We returned to find the markets of the Charente spring to be emerging, beginning each day with a stop in a nearby village's open air collection of growers/farmers, vendors, and artisans. The lone exception being Monday when all was quiet. True to a growing "calendar" understood, never written down, it was the time for a half dozen or so items: white asparagus, fava beans, young radish, early strawberries, spring garlic and onion. There was the hint of other items (small and tender lettuce, the first baby artichokes, even the occasional bunch of finger length carrots), yet the main focus was to relish things known to be available for so short a period.

  The challenge lay in there being primarily only a hand full of things with which to play. Oh, there was a vendor or two who sold things from outside the region (mature cauliflower, larger potatoes, etc.), but we went each day in search of the local producers; many of whom grew in their backyards. The radish were always a welcome sight as they tend to greet you at most tables this time of year along with butter, bread, and a mound of fleur de sel. On one occasion, Katie roasted a bunch, tops still on, tossed in olive oil and garlic to offset a rich white braise of pork shoulder. There was a day when as a starter Katie combined favas, spring garlic, duck sausage (out of the casing), ribbons of endive, and a bit of cream which she set on crostini. A week or so later, she altered this to include thin slices of lardon (pancetta), radish greens, lemon zest, and mint from the garden to go with the favas. (A light, bright red Burgundy worked well with both.)

 The latter dish was slid in as a course one perfectly lazy and unhurried Sunday lunch which drifted over several hours, in which Katie managed to do white asparagus a few different ways. She began with a velouté (a soup purée of the asparagus, spring onion, and butter) topped with a streak of créme fraîche. Next was a platter of asparagus poached (the white being much more firm than the green), surrounded by halves of boiled eggs, and freshly made mayonnaise to dress. The idea being to serve, dress, then grate the egg on top using your fork. Here came the crostini mentioned. She went on to add some tips to the end of a braise of whole hen legs (thigh and leg still attached), garlic, small onions, white wine, and fresh thyme.
 For dessert that day, as we had a group of our neighbors surrounding the table, Katie did something she very seldom (if ever) did: Made something very american. Gateau Fraise Court or... Strawberry Short Cake. Light and flaky rounds, spilling over in small berries macerated in lemon juice and sugar, with just enough whipped cream to ease it all together. By the speed, efficiency, and silence in which they were attacked, we judged them success. Recipes were promised as we sipped coffees. Cognac and pineau where poured, gifts made by those present whose lives evolve around the growing of the uni blanc varietal, essential to both. Normally, a weekend lunch can be counted on to stretch and linger, but we were all more than a bit surprised to find it nearly 4:30 when a clock was finally noticed. Meals with friends, may they be long. (Recipes on request.)

(http://www.chez-gautier.com)