Bake away...

 Not sure why people bake more during the holidays. Don't care! People are baking, and that's excellent. Tins packed brimming, shoe boxes lined in wax paper, heaping plates and dishes, or just good old tin foil... All have been answering that mid-afternoon-with-coffee craving, or the late night call when Christmas movies have been running to bleary eyed extreme. Who am I kiddin', I'm a sugar junkie. But, that does not come without standards, my way of saying I at least eye-ball what ever is heading for the bouche. Slows me down just a beat from a continual flow from hand to mouth. A small concession, so be it.

 Whether iced or glazed, topped in nuts or candied bits, powdered or simply left to their own merits, this got me thinking of the habit, no the ritual, of baking at this time of year. Pies at Thanksgiving come close, a measured and reverent process. Yet all the prep and effort are focused on one day, where as the December baking animal has nearly the whole month to play. There's also the added element of the result of so much sugar, butter, and eggs as "gift", far superior to the sweater, perfume, or "gift card" angle. Yeah, just one guy's opinion. Still, take a second before tossing back that chunk of chocolate bark, chewey ginger cookie, or bourbon laced shortbread, and think of the one who made what fills your paw. In a warm kitchen, butter hanging thick in the air, she or he have spent long hours mixing and rolling, promptly rotating sheet trays in and out of ovens, allowing for just the right amount of cooling, product stacking up here, there, and everywhere, all the while flour coats counters, floors, and probably a good amount of the bakers themselves.

 When eventually packed for giving, a list of names checked off, a well earned glass poured... Ah, that's got to feel good. No mall rush, parking place frenzy, sale isle wrestling, shopping cart crashin'... Nah, just people making stuff for people they dig. I'm good with that. Happy holiday cookies to you.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com

Repas CG: The Aftermath... November 22

Got together for a "night thing" recently, a chance to gather before packing bags, firing up the car, and diving into family for the Thanksgiving holiday. La Fin de Semaine hoped to put a close to the work week, escape the urge for early holiday shopping with a glass and a plate by the fire. Wood was popping and crackling when the first guests arrived, who I promptly put to "work" lighting the room in candles to counter the early darkness of the season.

 Steaming bowls of cauliflower soup got us started, mounds of Petrale sole done in a dry pan before cleaning it up with white wine, butter, and lemon were set in the center. Went with one of those bright, white things I've come to love from region south of Charmé, bearing some of the varietals used for cognac (or armagnac): Ugni Blanc, Colombard, and Gros Manseng. It went well with the fish, the roasted vegetables. Another log on the fire, and on to the hen legs, stuffed with Swiss chard, garlic, lemon zest, thyme, and bread crumbs. These were sliced thick and placed on acorn squash that had been whole roasted before being scooped to plate, hit with olive oil and fleur de sel.  As an after thought, I tossed on some toasted pistachios to add a bit of crunch. Had wanted a Burgundy for this, but was steered by friend and wine guy David to an Arbois from the Jura. Same neighborhood, but the blend was uniquely obscure: Poulsard and Trousseau were blended with the Pinot Noir. Light in the glass, depth in the mouth. He'd nailed it.

 Tossed arugula accompanied cheeses from each end of the realm: thick and decadent triple-cream cow and funky, sharp goat. A cru Beaujolais from Régnié eased us along, the 100% Gamay hitting the mark. Needing something sweet, but not too heavy, I'd baked some bisquits aux noix. Thing is, I'd remembered how one regular guest loves chocolate, and it had been a while since it last found it's way to the table. So... A little kiss of chocolate ganache, and all is right with the world. Well, at least in our mouths. The fire burned on... coffee was made... cognac... A good finish to the week, a good start to the holidays.

Recipes and Wine Notes on request.

Chez Gaurier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com

Thanksgiving... Dirty Trick

 Not sure about you, but when I hear the term "turkey trot" I imagine that not so graceful descent to the nearby carpet, rug, etc. while slipping into that warm post meal cacoon. So when much loved niece and nephew encouraged my presence southward for this past Thanksgiving to their "hoods", beaches Newport and Laguna respectively, it was easy to say, "I'm in!" Good grub, fine company, and a few adult beverages mixed in as well.

 It all started out well enough, as Jordan put his gifted surgeons hands to work on an impeccable cioppino. Clams, mussels, flaky chunks of  whitefish all in a broth that was... exceptional. Sour dough ruled the day, sopping up what spoons couldn't, while Cesar salad did greens proud. Crisp whites and good local beer competed for favors depending on mood, and the first round of freshly baked goods were unveiled: crumbly fruit bars and mini pecan tarts. Yep, a fine beginning. As the white turned to red, my glass finding itself as destination, it became apparent that the afore mentioned turkey trot was in fact a 10K the following morning along the waterfront of nearby Dana Point. Somehow my enthusiasm actually grew, coincidently as the consuming continued. It wan't long before I was down right inspired. 

 With the rustling of the waking house at a little past 5:00, my having seemingly just gone to bed, the initial doubts began about a run of distance for the first time in... Oh, let's say YEARS! It's not that I don't try to keep fit, but most who have run only to find themselves away from the regular practice, know well the potential for pain, agony, and embarrassment when rolling from bed to starting line with no real preparation. Buoyed by a sky stained in sunrise, a great vibe, and little to no thought of the consequences, I launched. Once your in it, as the saying goes... It was in fact pretty smooth, and quick. That was until I opened it up a bit along what appeared to be the stretch to the finish line, only to find that it was the HALF WAY MARK!!!

 Well, it may not have been a thing of beauty, but your will to continue comes on mighty strong when threatened of being passed by... everybody; especially a particularly quick and determined 7 year old. Got through it in decent fashion, and on to the parade of water, bananas, and Cliff Bars. Wasn't long following a beer and a shower that I cooked up a pâté, cheeses and charcuterie were layed out, and football games became the soundtrack of the day. While,we all contributed different dishes to the whole, it was Carol who'd trekked down with husband Monte from the Central Valley that did the heavy lifting: pies, turkey and ham, stuffing... oh, the stuffing. About anything you can imagine. So good was it all, so grateful was I. Which is the point, isn't it?The chance to sit with people that matter, sharing a bountiful table, and remind yourself of how truly fortunate you are.

Recipes and Wine Notes available on request.

Chez Gautier Cooking School: http://www.chez-gautier.com