Size does matter! At least when it comes to rabbits. In France, it's easy to become accustomed to the trade off to a smaller sized/more intensely flavored product. Chickens, pigs, even cuts of beef all are significantly smaller than what can be found in the States, but the quality is pretty damn good. One exception to this: rabbits.
Katie mentioned this while prepping for yesterday's
repas, which featured a rabbit roulade. While undeniably beautiful, the Devil's Gulch rabbits weren't what we had been eating in Charmé just a few weeks ago when she conceived of doing the dish for the first meal back by the bay. Be they from one of our neighbors or from the preferred butcher in Ruffec, they're just a bit bigger. So, she went ahead with the plan of stuffing them with bread crumbs, lemon zest, parmesan, toasted pine nuts, and various herbs, tied them up and seared them off, before a finish in the oven. For a little company, though, she browned the legs, then added white wine, thyme, Lucques olives, and lemon peel, braising them until tender. Tucking one beside the other, a mound of fresh sweet peas, and a few of the small carrots from our garden... A very nice plate, with some Beaujolais(Chénas) from 100 year old Gamay vines along for the ride.
But, I've gotten ahead of myself... Before fully diving into summer, Katie wanted that classic taste of a French spring: morel mushrooms done in white wine, butter, shallots, and thyme over her toasted brioche. Finished it with some crème fraîche, a glass of a Marsanne-Roussane blend on hand. With mushrooms meaty and firm, the brioche helped to cut the richness of the dish. From there it was on to a mound of frisée tossed in a whole grain mustard vinaigrette, a poached egg set on top, strips of crispy lardon over everything! Add a bunch of blanched asparagus beside it, and a glass of a firm rosé from the Minnervois... Mmmm.
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The cheese went from a mellow Boucheron to an intense Camembert, some arugula along with a Chinon(100% Cabernet Franc) joined in also. The "sweetie" was a cherry tart with toasted almond crust, a consolation for having to return from France before our Rainier tree could offer any ripe fruit. The cognac was notable in that it came from a female producer, Joan Brisson in Matha, a short drive from us. Solid producer, solid result, making for a good finish to the afternoon.
Recipes and
Wine Notes available on request.
Chez Gautier Cooking School:
http://www.chez-gautier.com
But, I've gotten ahead of myself... Before fully diving into summer, Katie wanted that classic taste of a French spring: morel mushrooms done in white wine, butter, shallots, and thyme over her toasted brioche. Finished it with some crème fraîche, a glass of a Marsanne-Roussane blend on hand. With mushrooms meaty and firm, the brioche helped to cut the richness of the dish. From there it was on to a mound of frisée tossed in a whole grain mustard vinaigrette, a poached egg set on top, strips of crispy lardon over everything! Add a bunch of blanched asparagus beside it, and a glass of a firm rosé from the Minnervois... Mmmm..JPG)
The cheese went from a mellow Boucheron to an intense Camembert, some arugula along with a Chinon(100% Cabernet Franc) joined in also. The "sweetie" was a cherry tart with toasted almond crust, a consolation for having to return from France before our Rainier tree could offer any ripe fruit. The cognac was notable in that it came from a female producer, Joan Brisson in Matha, a short drive from us. Solid producer, solid result, making for a good finish to the afternoon.