Repas CG: The Aftermath... March 18

 Set between a series of late season storms, we managed to sneak in the Cassoulet repas. Wet gave way for a day, in it's place a cold, dry northern wind, perfect for cassoulet. Tucked in among the French country gems of Garden Court Antiques in the Design District, Jim and Matthew served as our most able and generous hosts. Chandeliers and candles lit the space, and bounced off the waxed string of tables, perfectly dented by time and meals past.

 Katie started us with flaky tarts of Spring garlic, leak, and goat cheese which were paired with an Alsatian Pinot Blanc, crisp and light as not to overpower the subtle pastry. Then it was choux farci, a favorite when found in season in the Charente. There the mixture of ground pork, herbs, and onion is set inside of blanched cabbage leaves which are rebuilt to resemble the vegetable as found in the garden; the filling a treat revealed when slicing. Katie's take on it was to make it more individual, wrapping the pork mixture in the blanched leaves, then steaming to order before setting on a pool of roasted red pepper coulis. To this was offered the soft spice and ample fruit of a Grenache, Carignan, and Censault blend by Abbaye Sylva Plana (Les Novices 2009) from the Languedoc, able to hold up to the richness of the pork, and yet also the smokey tang of the coulis. Next came the cassoulet, a mixture of confit of duck legs, crispy pork belly, and lengths of sausage braised with white beans, all hidden beneath a thick crust of garlic and herbed bread crumbs. Turned to a Gigandas (Domaine Saint-François-Xavier, 2009) for this, mostly Grenache with a bit of Syrah, and was very pleased how the dark fruit, good weight, and soft spice ket pace. Snuck in a Domaine de Labarthe from the small Gaillac region east of Toulouse which made great use of the seldom seen Fer-Servadou and Duras grapes, resulting in a deep , earthy glass that set well with a triple cream Brie Robert and arugula.

 By the time the dark chocolate pot de crême and coffee were served, the wind had eased up, giving us few excuses to packing. But... comme d'habitude, there was cognac to sip, and we weren't about to have our guests drink alone! So we settled in for a taste of Le Reviseur, smoke and caramel in the glass, which comes from the southern edge of the Petite Champagne growing region. Eventually, eyes began to wander about the space, hands to reach for the smooth old finishes of armoirs and end tables, and us to offer an embrace and a kiss in thanks for another Sunday well spent.

http://www.chez-gautier.com

A Little Easter Love...

 Easter began early, a bit too early for the side of me that craves a good lie-in on Sunday mornings. We had promised to join friend George before the weekend crowds filled the trails, on a hike up Mt. Tam. The sun eased the fatigue, and gave comfort no doubt to the large group doing the holiday run across the Golden Gate. We somehow managed to get a word (if only briefly) to our dear Suzanne in Charmé, wishing her a "Bon Paque", Katie excitedly trying to convey the description of the sun, the bay, Alcatraz...
 Snaked our way up trails left green from recent Spring rains, the stream beds echo of falling water staying with us until high up in the manzanita. Not lost were the few turkey buzzards which kept pace with our ascent, seemingly waiting for a waver in our resolve. We watered on top, the Bay giving way to the Pacific, the thicket of redwoods that was Muir woods tucked just the other side of Stinson,  a turn in the far coast marking Point Reyes, the City looking much too small. Our recent addition of little mop-head mix rescue puppy took seamlessly to the change from kennel to hillside. Once down, we made up for the lack of breakfast with margaritas, shrimp tacos, and crab enchiladas in Mill Valley.

 A nap was not far off, and a short, yet hard sleep very appreciated before the afternoon meal at Jon and Kayta's. Increasing clouds had them shift the tables in from under the massive oak out back, running instead through their Glenview District Craftsman. With an ease that we've come to expect from them, they offered platters of deep pink lamb chops, grilled young asparagus, and a lamb stock rissoto turned light green by a purée of mint, chive, and parsley. A trio of cheeses, tossed greens, and red wines in abundance left for little room, but I still managed to sneak in a few of Katie's citrus shortbread cookies with just a bit of cognac.
 As their little ones were put down for sleep, and even the energetic dogs showed a slowing in their play, it was time to head back to the City. So content at the long day's end, even the absence of a single chocolate egg couldn't shake the satisfaction.

http://www.chez-gautier.com